Touhou Artificial Dream in Arcadia
I figured I'd say a few things about whether Artificial Dream in Arcadia is fun by whatever metric, but it's so committed to the bit that who cares what I think? You want an old-fashioned first-person dungeon crawl? It sure is one. It's got the party-building and also the backtracking. I'm a fake SMT fan, so I can't compare it against every obscure spinoff in that series. But I do have feelings about the set dressing.
I don't want to downplay the importance of Touhou fanwork as a motivator for me, but honestly the 78,000 characters with names and actual designs make it harder to keep up with as time goes on, and my interest in what these people's deal is never quite survives the journey to the most recent numbered game fully intact (not that this makes me original). The advantage of a large pool of weird assholes, though, is that they slot nicely into the role of Megaman bosses or Pokemon or, in this case, SMT demons. They have an established look, they have personalities and skillsets, and it's a lot of useful raw material depending on what kind of game you're interested in making. It took Zun three decades to come up with all these characters, and unless we have three decades to spare, we may as well take him up on his offer to use them.
Sumireko has a fraught relationship with Gensokyo. It gives her life meaning but maybe distracts her from looking for meaning anywhere else, besides which she's out of place there, and the dialogue, infrequent as it is, does a good job of riffing on this stuff. Why is her Gensokyo an unforgiving gauntlet of random encounter enemy packs? Early on someone suggests that, well, maybe people just don't like her very much. It's both funny and suitably sad without being soul-grinding tragedy or horror, and that to me is what it's all about.